Why Travel?

I had planned to stay with a friend in Kolkata. I met him in Jaipur. I was in the city for the literature festival. Between one of the sessions, I decide to go to the festival bookstore. I see another boy, about my size, round spectacles, short hair, standing in front of the poetry bookshelf at the store. He was looking at a collection of poems I had recently read. I commented,

'That is a great book'

'Yeah, it sure looks like one.'

Your first time at the festival?

Yeah.

Mine too. Where are you from?

Guwahati. You?

Why cook?

That was a question worth pondering over again. I recently learned how to cook some basic meals at home. This included rice, indian bread, pulses, sandwiches. But this is not cooking in the true sense.

Michael Pollan, the food writer, In his book, 'Cooked - A Natural History of Transformation' listed out four basic processes that have evolved over time, to transform the stuff of nature, into delicious things to eat and drink. They are further documented as follows:-

a) Grill with Fire

b) Cook with Liquid

c) Bake Bread

d) Ferment everything from cheese to beer

Chennai Stopover - Beaches, Motels, Rajnikanth and Street Shopping

I have just spent at week at the Sadhana Forest (volunteer community) in Auroville. I now have to leave. I have a 3 hour morning bus ride from Pondicherry to Chennai. I ask one of the volunteers going into the city, to drop me off at the highway. I then jump into a bus, heading towards Pondicherry at the Toll Gate. I get down at the bus station in Pondicherry, and then purchase a ticket on the next bus to Chennai. I had a train from Chennai to Kolkata in two days time. I had a day to spare and decided to spend it exploring some parts of Chennai. When I reach Chennai, the first thing I need to do is to find a room, to keep my luggage in. So I walk towards some hotels near my bus station. 

How to choose the right motel?
The first motel, I checked, had all the basic necessities. It had a bed, table, T.V and bathroom. I see a bunch of cockroaches under the bed and the paint chipping of one corner wall. I walk into the motel next door, and this has all the basic necessities minus the cockroaches and chipped walls. I hire the room for the night, freshen up and then walk out to explore the city. I carry only my purse and wallet and they fit easily into pant pockets. It is so nice, to not have to carry, a heavy bag around with you. I've had enough of luggage carrying for a month.

Train to Kolkata

I had a train from Chennai to Kolkata at 9 am. My alarm went off at 6 30 am and I shut it off to get a few more minutes of sleep. How stupid of me. Fortunately, I woke up at 7 30 am, and ran to the station to catch my train, to Kolkata. Bye bye South India. Hello Kolkata.

On the train, I share my coach cabin with a computer engineer. He was from Kolkata, but he worked in Chennai. He was visiting his family, back in Kolkatafor a week. We spoke about Kolkata, the city he had grown up in. I read him a passage from my diary that I had noted recently. It was a Guardian Article by Amit Chaudhari about a city, he adored and grew up in. Here are a few sections of the article that I read out to him,

'India changed rapidly, often disturbingly, after 1991; Calcutta remained resistant to globalization and the new world order, cultivating their irrelevance to itself and its own to theirs.'

I went on,

'outside of India it was hardly known except, occasionally, through the luminous cinema of Satyajit Ray and through translations of Tagore, that teetered between the parodic and perplexing.'

Kolkata Darshan

I had a full day Kolkata Darshan trip planned for the day. The west bengal tourism department organized this. I knew it would be hard, for my friend, to take me around to every place in Kolkata, so I decide to go on this trip. Another important learning from this journey was in store for me. When ever you travel, find a way to entertain yourselves. Your host had a life, before you came. All that will not stop, to take you around and entertain you, when you are in the city. Ask for help when needed. Don't be fully dependent. I did some research. The west bengal tourism department organized the full day tour of the city. It was a full day tour with an ambitious schedule. It started at 8 am and ended at 5 30 am. These were the places listed out,

Starts at Kolkata Tourism Center

a) Raj Bhavan

b) Akashvani Bhavan

c) Bidhan Sabha and High Court

d) St Johns Church

e) Writers Building

f) Belur Math

g) Dakshineshwar Kali Temple

h) Raja Ram Mohan Museum

Lunch

i) Town Hall

j) Eden Gardens

k) Princep Ghat

l) St Pauls Cathedral

Ends at Victoria Memorial

Sadhana Forest - Thursday and Friday - Last days at Auroville

It is my fifth day at the Sadhana Forest Auroville. I don't feel too good. I think I miss home a little bit too. I ask him if I can take a break and skip the morning seva. He tells me to take the morning seva off. I spend the morning, at the library. I pick up a book and lay on my back on the floor, drooping off and waking up, from periodic slumbers in between reading a few pages. For the second seva, I volunteer at the Breakfast kitchen.

Feeling Low

I feel really low. I think I should call my parents back home, later in the night. I miss my mother and her cooking. I miss my friends and our afternoon games of cricket. I miss the movies I would go for, with my dad. I miss the pointless walks around my neighborhood, exploring abandoned bungalows and new retail and food outlets. I wish I could just go back in time and freeze time forever. I could be ten years old for life. Those days, when all I had to worry about, was getting a good grade at school and developing a good perception of myself among the adults in my life. If I could do the above, I was a good human being. Even if I was a messed up individual on the inside. I was a good human being, if I got high grades. It was so simple. That was all that was expected of me. I hate growing up. Suddenly, you realize, you can do anything. That is horrible. There is so much to do, that you do not end up doing anything. Aaaaahh.

Sadhana Forest - Wednesday - Living a full day

Days are so much more complete for me at Sadhana Forest in Auroville. I feel like I am able to pull more life out of every moment of the day. You get up early, work in the mornings, relax in the afternoons, converse in the evenings, and sleep early for another day of this cycle. The routine is good. You work for four hours only, but in those four hours, you are completely present. You are not distracted. You have to be involved. A simple activity like cutting fruit, needs to be done with full concentration if you do not want to cut your hand. 

Sadhana Forest Auroville -Tuesday - 'Sometimes I am weak too'

Cutting Fruits for Breakfast
After the morning circle, I spend my first shift in the kitchen. I join the breakfast team and am given the responsibility, to cut fruits. Lots and lots of fruits. I could not go into the forest two days in a row. I was not as fit as many of the other volunteers in the camp. I thought I would go back into the forest the next day. But cutting fruits was fun. Papayas and Pinepples were on the menu today. I like papayas. Pineapples are a little harder to cut. It sure is a different feeling, to be part of the breakfast team and then to eat the breakfast you have made. The fruits on my plate were real delicious that day.

Making Idli Batter
My second shift was with the cooking team ( idli batter) again. Only this time I was alone. I never would take the idlis I had for breakfast lightly again. It was such a pain to make the idli batter from scratch. I knew, because I had to do it two days in a row. This time I was smarter. I setup the equipment and after starting the grinding machine, decided to go into the main community hut after every 15 minutes for a 5 minute break. I started making the batter at 9 30 am and by 1 pm, it was ready. This time I was less tired. I had some leftover energy for the rest of the day, unlike yesterday.

Sadhana Forest Auroville - Monday - Forests and Food

It is 6 am. I walk into the forest with my fellow comrades. We are on a mission. To build bands that conserve water and to plant trees. I am wearing a half torn t-shirt and an old pair of shorts. For the next two hours, we are walking the forest near the Sadhana community. We divide responsibilities. 

Building Forests

Every individual is given two water cans. Past volunteers have planted little trees and plants all over the forest. Next to these plants, there is a small bottle, that is inserted into the soil. At the end of this bottle, is a long tube, that is connected to the deep roots of the plant. This ensures that whatever water we put into this bottle, will go to the very roots of the plant. This is a much more efficient way to water the plant, than merely sprinkling it all over the plant. The water tank, is placed at one place and once the water in your can is over, you have to walk back to the water tank, fill your can and go back to the plants again. Two filled water cans would carry at least 4-5 litres of water. It was quite tiring carrying these cans back and forth. Fortunately the sun was on our side and it was not too hot. Now i know, why they start off so early in the morning.

But this whole exercise, is quite engaging in a whole different sort of way. I had to carry the soil in my hand and feel the earth. Sweat dripping over my forehead, I would fall down often or trip over my water cans. Also the realization, that you are helping a fully alive organism, grow and sustain itself, by simply watering it, makes you feel more connected to your roots. It made me think about where my food came from. How this was the process the farmer, had to undertake to make the vegetables and fruits that I eat at home. How easily, I would throw away a piece of fruit, not realizing the time and care behind every fruit that emerged from the soil. I think I will go back home and start gardening. Maybe adopt a plant. Maybe adopt two...

Sadhana Forest Auroville - Sunday - Reading and Children at Play

I love my cot. It is so comfortable. The morning bell is hit in the distance. It is time to get up. I get up. This was my first day in Sadhana, I could not spend it sleeping. I look at my watch and it is 5 30 am. This is when I normally sleep on some days back home in Mumbai. We meet up in an open space near the main hut, and then do some stretches and funny dances. Then we were free

Sunday was still a holiday at Sadhana. So I had another day to just do nothing. It is quite the skill. The ability to do nothing. To just be with yourself, for hours at end. It was 5 30 am, and I had nothing planned for the day. This was rare. I have a specific set of goals I have to complete on most days, back at home. Today, I had nothing. I had nothing planned for the whole day. It was liberating and yet kind of scary. Liberating because, I had the option to do absolutely anything on this day. I could read, or walk, or talk, or cook, or just observe a tree. Nobody would care. Nobody looking over me. This seemed like the autonomy, I was in search of my whole life. School, parents, friends always had a say over how I spend my time growing up. Now I had full control over this decision. It was scary because I would be alone with myself. There was always the possibility to think too much. There was always the possibility of this thought process turning negative and turning against myself. I could also get bored, so that was definitely another worry. It has been a long time, since I last got bored.

Sadhana Forest Auroville - Saturday - Cycling and Pondicherry Walks

Saturday and Sunday were holidays at Sadhana Forest. I could spend my first two days just exploring the camp, which I was quite excited about. Most volunteers from the camp, visit the other communities in Auroville or catch a bus to Pondicherry from the highway. I had not visited Pondicherry up to then. I had a french professor in high school, who was from Pondicherry. He taught me French for four years. I still can't speak much of it. He was real nice. He taught us the subject really well and made learning French an interesting adventure. He told us about French cuisine, music, monuments, literature. It was beautiful to listen to somebody, that was so passionate about his subject. 

So I wanted to visit Pondicherry. It was a former French colony. I remember my professor, telling me about cafes and buildings that looked exactly like the ones you had in France. How cool is that? So that saturday, I wake up early and then catch a bus to Pondicherry. I walk around the city. Visit the public library, notice that a street there was called, 'Rue de la street' and eat a baguette at a bakery nearby. It was quite hot, so I caught a 1 pm bus back to Auroville. I thought I would spend the rest of the day exploring some parts of this city. I visit the Auroville Visitors Center and just walk around with no specific purpose. I think that is the best way to explore a place. To just walk around and observe. 

Sadhana Forest Auroville - Friday - Listening and Volunteering

I am waiting at the highway toll gate for a community member from the Sadhana Forest, Auroville to come pick me up. I look out into the distance. A man and a little girl ride towards me on a bike. They notice that I have a backpack and drive towards me. Their bike stops in front of me. The man introduces himself. Then the little girl introduces herself. I tell them my name.  I sit on the bike and we are off. I wish that was how most introductions went. All you need from another person is their name. I wish people did not ask you about your work, background, family life, and then would judge you based on how you answered these questions

 A few kilometers down the highway, the bike then moves onto the dirt road. Bump - boom - bump -boom, goes our bike. I just hope I don't fall off the bike and embarrass myself. Slowly the trees, become less and the desert like shrubs start appearing. The dirt road seems endless, and then the houses also start disappearing. Five minutes later, we are at the entrance of Sadhan Forest. A broken down door, with a, 'Welcome to Sadhana Forest' sign is observed at the entrance. I was finally here.

Bus Journey – Chennai – Pondicherry - Auroville

The bus stops at a toll gate, on the outskirts of Pondicherry. I am in Auroville. It is a small town inspired by the philosophy of Sri Aurobindo.  It was founded by Mirra Alfassa (also known as "The Mother"). She spoke about the vision for this township with her first public message as such, "Auroville is meant to be a universal town where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities. The purpose of Auroville is to realize human unity." It is a collection of properties located some 12 km north of Pondicherry.  These properties mostly comprise of alternate communities that have their own philosophies and approaches to living. Vegan Communities, Musical Instrument Shops, Environment Protection Communities, Organic Food Shops, Yoga Centers are some of the objectives of these alternate communities. I was here to spend a week in one such alternate community, called the Sadhana Forest.

The Temples of Madurai and The Driver that Swindled Us

We move from one temple city to another. Madurai is the third largest city in the state of Tamil Nadu. It is well known for its historical monuments and temples especially the Meenakshi Amman temple. It is dedicated to the Hindu goddess, Parvati (Meenakshi) and her consort, Sundareshwar (Shiva). It houses 14 gopurams or gateway towers. The temple attracts 15,000 visitors a day. There are an estimated 33,000 sculptures in the temple. This is our last destination, so aunty books a really nice hotel for us. We enter the room and it is like a King's lounge. A dressing table and mirror on one side, a huge king size bed, a transparent tub in the washroom, dim lighting, 10 pillows and soft towels and toiletries on the bed. 

This was more than heaven. I lay flat on the bed with my hands stretched out for a long time, like Leonardo's Vitruvian Man. The ceiling is also painted. It looks like a fresco. I could look at this ceiling wall all day. I am pushed aside by my aunt's daughter. Not fair. I then go and explore the room further. The view from the window of our room is not too bad. You cannot get everything right. Some huge buildings cover our view of the city landscape. Stupid huge buildings. But back in the room, we were in seventh heaven. We order in with room service and spend the night, dancing to bollywood songs and chatting. One of those nights, you wish never ended.

Notes from the Southern Tip of India

That afternoon, we leave Trivandrum and head to our next destination, the southern most tip of India, Kanyakumari. We reach our destination, late in the afternoon. The heat was now getting to us. The car had become a boiling pot of sorts, with the rays of the sun entering the car and being reflected and refracted through us. I was glad this afternoon car journey lasted only three hours. Travel is hard work. Even though it is romanticized as the ultimate cool thing to spend your time doing. Sitting in a mode of transport for ten hours, staring out at an unchanging landscape, is travel too. It is not just monuments and good food and all fun. But every time you reach your destination, all the work you put into the long journey seems worth the effort. Just to be in a new place with new people is such an exciting feeling. The newness of the moment, the freshness of the experience are things you want to hold on to. Jon Krakauer wrote about this in his book, 'Into the Wild'. The protagonist of the book Alexander Mccandies is quoted here as such:-

'The core of mans' spirit comes from new experiences.'

Trivandrum – Peer Influence and Temple Blessings

As my two companions go off to sleep that night, I sit on the couch and play some light music on my laptop. It is 2 am, on the 5th Floor of a hotel in Trivandrum. How in the world did I end up here? Where did I go wrong? I don't even know what I did wrong. Why am I even thinking about all this? This trip has been the best thing that has happened to me over the past three to four years. These most uncertain years of my life, transitioning between late adolescence and adulthood. Family, School, Peers and Solitude are the four major influences in an adolescents life. The first three are external determinants. The last aspect an internal determinant. 

For a long time, most of my actions were largely based on what the external determinants demanded of me. Recently, I have realized that the internal determinant, is equally if not more important than the first three. I was very uncomfortable being alone. I was scared I would get bored and then would not know what to do. Boredom was a sign, of my engagement in tasks that did not engage me. But I had no autonomy and control over my time. I had to go to school, I had to be around family and I was largely influenced by the peers that surrounded me. I gave these aspects more importance, than who I actually was as an individual. Thus, I had to jump and often change identities. I had no set definition of who I was. I was a different person with my peers and a different person at home. 

Getting Lost on the Beaches of Kerala

We are in Kerala on a great south indian journey. We have quite the spread waiting for us at the breakfast table the next morning. These days most meals are like a buffet for a boy who was used to picking up meals at street side stalls. This was luxury times ten. My aunt had elevated me to a whole new lifestyle. Nights in hotels, buffet breakfasts, cars to take you around, it was insane. But I think the most special part of this journey was being with my aunt and her daughter. We had grown quite close over the past few days. The conversation over breakfast was about all the antics we engaged in the day before. The driver, then takes us to a possible starting point for a boat ride down the Kerala Backwaters. 

I wanted to do this my whole life. I had heard a lot of stories about the backwaters, growing up. About the natural beauty of the surrounding environment, about the calmness of life around you on the boat, about the people you get to meet along the way. Mr Muchad told us that we planned to take the daily, in his words, 'most popular and leisurely' eight hour backwater cruise from Allepey to Kollam. It was 9 am, when we left the hotel, with our bags. The boat ride across Kerala would start at 10 30 am and finish at 6 pm in the evening.

A Letter to my 17 year old self

I wish I judged myself less. I wish I let myself make more mistakes. I wish I was not always in such a hurry. There was something about the sea, and its vastness, its depth, its power, its control, that made me feel safe being close to it. I knew I would not be judged, if I expressed myself to the ocean. I would not matter so much to the vast sea. But in my head I would give this interaction full meaning. Meaning is a point worth considering.

But if I I am successful? Will it really mean anything?

What is success to me?

Money, Happiness, Fame, Recognition, Being Accepted. Is that it?

Being a tourist or being a back packer?

We arrive in Kochi and check in to our hotel. It has an exercise room and a terrace swimming pool.  We (Me and my aunt's daughter), explore all the floors and facilities. You know the normal stuff. Check in to a fancy hotel  and quickly explore all the facilities the hotel provides you. Then check all the free stuff you plan to utilize in your room. We open the fridge and it is filled with all the wonderful things in the world. Chocolates, Juice, Drinks are the various choices we have. We read a sheet of paper placed on the fridge and find out that these are not so wonderful anymore. They are paid goodies.

It is quite interesting to get the chance to be a tourist and a back packer on the same journey. When you travel as a backpacker, you are super careful with resources and a little stingy too. As a tourist you don't really care. Backpackers schedule a whole day in one or two places. 

Linguistic Diversity, Morning Walks and the Budhha in Nature

So many languages in India I don’t understand, yet we all belong to the same country. It also made me wonder, how even though I am an Indian, there are so many parts of my culture that I am unfamiliar with. Each of the 28 states has a unique language, unique literature, unique stories, unique rituals, unique ways of seeing the world and more. To come to this village, and expect myself to acclimatize in no time, because I was from Mumbai, was not a realistic goal. I would be a little out of place, in almost every place I visit over the next few months. How long does it take an individual to actually get used to a place? 

I have stayed in Mumbai for the last few years. I still am exposed to new sides of the city, I did not know about, almost everyday. That led me to another thought? What is a city? Is a city its buildings? Is a city its resources? Or is a city its people? The people that come and go. This I suppose is the same for a rural town. If there is one certainty at both levels. It is this idea of temporariness. That everything will not be here for ever. The buildings will stay. But in the next hundred years, every individual that is alive in the city or rural town, will be dead. New people will be born. New stories will develop. New Ritual, New perspectives on language, new ways of seeing the world will arise. Nobody will even know I exist, two hundred years from now. So much for my search of legacy. When I am dust and part of the earth that created me, will it matter to me if I was once famous? Maybe then human language will not be a barrier. My worth would not be determined, by what I do. My worth would be determined by who I am.